Quarter Pounder

Rather than two 16-week semesters, UU has four 10-week quarters. So, instead of four hour-ish classes that meet two or three times per week for four months, you have two classes that meet for up four hours once a week for about two months. (Some hardy souls brave a third class, which is not recommended!) The expectation is that you will put in a minimum of 20 hours or work per week for each class. There is some good news and some bad news that goes along with this system.

First, the good news is that you will take a larger variety of classes far more quickly, and graduate sooner than you will in a traditional semester system. Further, the classes are very fast-paced and challenging and thus it is nearly impossible to get bored. Ideal for those of us with a short attention span! Since the classes meet only once a week, your schedule is very flexible. This is especially important if you want to participate in externship or clinical programs. And, you will acquire excellent time-management skills since procrastination is simply not an option! Best of all, if you really don’t care for a class or a professor, it is for only two months. You can do nearly anything for only two months! The light is always there at the end of the fairly short tunnel.

The bad news is the amount of reading required is astronomical, and there is very little turn-around time for completing assignments, even complex ones (especially complex ones!). It is easy to feel overwhelmed. It can be hard to stay focused in a class that lasts four hours, and  missing class is simply not an option - no matter how lousy you may feel. There really is no catching up if you fall behind. And, there is a tendency to sacrifice depth for breadth; it is like that whirlwind tour of European capitals, you barely scratch the surface of the post card. The worst part is when, seemingly just after you started class and settled in, final exams, papers and presentations are all due within days of each other. Then the light at the end of the tunnel becomes the proverbial light of an oncoming train! Finally, the second quarter does not end with the Christmas break, as the first semester would. So much nicer to begin your holiday break with the relief of knowing there is nothing left hanging over your head!

So, which is better? For a master’s program, there is much to be said for a compact curriculum as most graduate students are not anxious to spend extra time (or money) on school. Perhaps there is room for compromise, though. Some classes might be broken into two quarters and offered consecutively so as to allow one to plumb the depths of a critical subject. International Criminal Law and Procedure springs to mind; why not a Law quarter followed by a Procedure quarter? Well, would love to ponder this further, but I am running late for a date with an oncoming train!  

Trainspotting

Trains, buses and trams are plentiful and incredibly on time. Even better, you can use an OV chip card anywhere in the Netherlands and avoid buying train tickets or having coins for buses or trams. You simply buy a card and load it with money, and before boarding a train, bus, or tram, you scan your card. The scanner automatically deducts money from the card; when you arrive at your destination you scan your card again and based on your destination, you are credited back the amount that exceeds the round-trip cost of travelling between your starting point and your destination. And, if you buy a personalized card, you get a 40% discount during off-peak hours.

Sounds very easy, and it is. But. You DO have to remember to scan your card both ways. That sounds easy, too, but for me, somehow it just isn’t! The first time I used my card on a bus, I forgot to scan my card when I got off. What happens? Well, you wind up paying the maximum fare no matter how short a trip you took. Which is rather painful if you forget to scan at the end of a train trip, as that is 20 euros! (Did that, too!) You do not want to forget to scan your card before boarding, either. The fine for being on a train without having paid is hefty, and getting cited by Mr. Conductor (decidedly not an affable Ringo Starr or George Carlin at the Shining Time Station!) does not look like much fun.

Recently as I waited on the platform for the train, I could not remember whether I scanned my card. My companions did not remember seeing me doing it either, so to be safe I ran back into the station, scanned my card and ran back to the platform. On the train, Mr. Conductor came to check on cards and very sternly informed me that I had not paid! I protested that indeed I had double checked, but he was not convinced. (Understandable, as I am sure these folks have heard it all!) Well, as it turns out, I HAD scanned it in the first place, and scanning again effectively checked me out. Although Mr. Conductor could see this on his scanner, he didn’t seem convinced it was not deliberate. However, he did let me get off the train at the next station to scan back in. It was a very brief stop, and he advised if I did not get back on the train before it left I would have to wait 30 minutes for the next train. As it was a chilly night I was not very keen on that possibility, but I did manage to scan in and get back in time. No fine, just a very skeptical Mr. Conductor who huffed that I still managed to save a little money by checking in at that station rather than the first one!

So, the moral of story, always remember to scan your card – and remember doing so! And, if like me, you have a spotty memory for such things, you can use your OV chip card to buy an actual ticket with the non-peak discount. Although this is supposed to be for companions, sometimes you just want to show your ticket to ride!

So You Think You Can Speak Dutch

You don’t have to speak Dutch; most Dutch people speak English (and several other languages) quite fluently. In fact, it is sometimes frustrating when you actually DO want to speak Dutch but your Dutch listener automatically flips to English at the slightest hint of an accent! For those of you who wish to learn, ING offers Dutch lessons very inexpensively. But for those of you who want to just get by with English, there are few Dutch phrases it behooves you to learn:

Feitspad: “Bike path.” Important to know, as you do not want to mistake that very inviting looking path as a walkway!

Kijk uit!: “Look out!” Screamed your way when you do walk on the fietspad, or if you are on a bike and get in another biker’s way. Often accompanied by loud pinging bells.

Duewen, and Trek: Push, and Pull. You will see these signs on doors. (If you push when you should have pulled, you can always claim you don’t read Dutch!)

Gezellig: cozy, convivial, sociable, often accompanied by words with the diminutive “je” added to the end, as in “kopje koffie.” Small and cozy is the heart and soul of Dutch sociability – no matter how large and chaotic!

A.U.B.: shortened version of “alstublieft; “please.” A.U.B. is used on signs, such as “no smoking” or “no parking,” and in written instructions. However, the long form is spoken when a service is rendered or requested. The possibilities for sarcasm are endless!  

Doei or doe-doie: Bye, or bye bye. I am not sure when this entered the lexicon, but it seems to have replaced “dag,” which means “day” but is used as both a greeting and a farewell. (Similarly, “hoi” is used as hello, often accompanied by three kisses, one on each cheek and then another for good measure on the first cheek.) “Tot ziens” means see you later, and “fijne dag” means have a nice day.

Ring: As far as I can figure, this is a street sign used instead of the name of the really big street on the map that you were sure you could not possibly miss!

Proost: “Cheers!” Important to know on a gezellig night on the town!

W.C.: toilet or bathroom, also important to know on a gezellig night on the town!

getverderrie: a mild expletive used to express disgust, also shortened to “getver.” Useful when stepping in dog droppings or when getting a soaking on your bike from a car splashing through a mud puddle.

Verdorie: a mild version of verdomme (damn it).

Chipknip: a sort of electronic wallet, whereby you can move funds from your Dutch debit card onto a chipknip account and then use the same card to pay, for example, a vending machine or parking garage. You can also get a prepaid chipknip card if you lack a Dutch bank account. All the vending machines at UU require the use of chipknip, so if you desperately need that cup of coffee to get through your 4-hour class and have only coins, you are out of luck! Verdorie!  

Survival Tools

So, what practical survival tools are necessary for a student in Utrecht? First and foremost, a bicycle! No, not a fancy racing bike, although you may be racing to keep up with the hardy Dutch, all seemingly born on a bike. Just a regular, sturdy “sit up and beg,” “beach cruiser,” or whatever you want to call your basic transportation bicycle. Mine has no gears and back pedal brakes. But it takes me everywhere I want to go, and since it is nothing fancy and thus not a theft-magnet, it is always there when I return. (Do invest in a good lock!) Biking as transportation is the norm in the Netherlands, and everyone does it. Elderly people, children, business persons in suits and heels, moms with a child seat on the handlebars, behind the seat, or even in a large cart affixed in front of the bike. No fancy biking togs required, either, just bike in whatever you are wearing – including heels, a business suit, or your party dress!

The beauty of biking in the Netherlands is the amazing bicycle infrastructure. Nearly every street has a dedicated bike lane or even an alternate bike route, and bicyclists have their own traffic signals. (Not that cyclists seems to pay them any mind!) The respect for bicyclists is incredible, cars actually stop for you and woe to the pedestrian who gets in your way! And everywhere you go, there are places to park and lock your bike, everything from bike racks to actual bike parking garages, or just a handy street pole or railing. Of course, with so many bikes piled together it can be quite difficult to find your bike or retrieve it from the nest; occasionally you will  cause an entire row of bikes to fall like so many dominos!

Second, one must invest in good rain gear. Waterproof coat, pants and boots to go over whatever you are wearing. Of course, you could, like the Dutch, learn to cycle while holding an umbrella, but this is of no avail in a brisk wind. And trust me, in such a flat country, the wind is quite brisk! Sometimes it seems it is all you can do to pedal furiously just to stand still! Also, invest in a good waterproof backpack to protect your laptop and books on the way to class, and for your bike, water repellant saddlebags.

Third, and perhaps most importantly, a sense of humor! Learn to laugh at yourself, along with the Dutch who may very well laugh as you struggle to adapt to the bicycle culture. You will feel shaky at first, learning to navigate through bike rush-hour with hoards of cyclists surrounding you within inches. Just keep doing it; soon you, too, will be cycling with no hands, while carrying a couple of sack of groceries or perhaps a large musical instrument, eating your lunch, talking on your cell phone, perhaps with a passenger on the back. Talk about multi-tasking!

The ExPat Factor

One aspect of being an international student that is easy to overlook is the sense of disorientation that can set in once you begin to buckle down to the work you came to do. Wherever you were before and whatever you were doing, you had a certain identity, a peer group, a sense of yourself and your place in the world. After getting past the anticipation and excitement of moving abroad and starting a new adventure, you confront the realization that you must rebuild all of that at the same time that you are struggling to get yours arms around the breadth and the depth of your new academic challenge. The sudden lack of confidence and equilibrium can be daunting.

I was born in the Netherlands, I have family here, and I speak Dutch (and can read just enough to be dangerous!). So in a sense it was a homecoming as much as it was leaving home. My cultural adjustment was perhaps easier than most. But the academic adjustment is another matter. Going back to school after 25 years of practicing law sounds much easier than it actually is! After spending years learning through trial and error (literally!), earning respect and credibility, mastering the complexities of your area and ultimately being regarded as an expert and a mentor, it is hard to suddenly find yourself a rank beginner with no reserve of instinctive knowledge or even a true peer group. I have heard much the same from far younger students from various disciplines.

So, how to cope? First, recognize that you are not alone and you do have peers –see those sleep-deprived people with the glazed-over eyes from waaay too many hours spent reading? Those would be your fellow students, like you, struggling mightily to balance the discipline and structure needed to learn so much in so short a period of time. Second, allow yourself time to socialize. Not only with your peers, but with “normal” people! Sometimes you just need to take a break from all things school. There are many ex pat groups and a wealth of opportunity to meet people from all over the world as well as a few from the world you just left. And “go local” as well, make Dutch friends, explore Utrecht! Third, indulge in those “Twinkies for the brain.” Comfort foods, mindless TV, your favorite books, movies and music. Finally, remind yourself of who you are and what you have already accomplished, and stay in touch with those who can help remind you. (What DID we do before Skype and Facebook?)

We all have our reasons for leaving our comfort zone and those reasons have a way of manifesting when we least expect it. For me, this was going to a two-day conference on the International Criminal Court at the Peace Palace. Yes, the Peace Palace! Where else could you possibly do this? This is THE place, the hub. Perhaps I will find my place here after all…

Orientation Week

Of course one arrives in Utrecht excited about the coming semester, but first things first; before class begins comes orientation. What a week! Tuesday afternoon, a meeting with classmates and faculty from my relatively small master’s program in the city center; Wednesday evening, an international meet and greet at the Uithof; Thursday, all-day general orientation at the Uithof; then law school orientation on Friday in the city center. Quite a lot to absorb! And quite a Herculean task for the school, trying to acquaint so many students from all over the world undertaking diverse bachelor, masters and exchange programs, most struggling with jet lag and adjusting to new environs, with all the minutia of university email accounts and websites, enrollment issues, course schedules, residence permits, student ID cards, city registration, student bank accounts and the seeming hundreds of details that must be sorted out before one can turn to the academic task at hand. Despite the chaos inherent in such an undertaking, UU’s international program is quite well-organized. That is something you must understand about the Netherlands, chaos is always well-regulated! And somehow, it all works!

 

The lecture on Dutch culture and UU study culture was very fun and informative. This lecture was given by Emmeline Besamusca, who teaches Dutch culture at UU and who published a book that anyone considering studying abroad at UU should read: Foreign Eyes: International Students Reflect on Utrecht, Pallas Publications (October 2011). This is a book of essays by current and past international students reflecting on Dutch culture and academic life. Everything you wanted to know, but perhaps had not thought to ask, about the joys and hazards of biking in all sorts of weather, the idiosyncrasies of the Dutch palate and temperament, and the challenges of adjusting to new academic frontiers so far from home.

There is tremendous amount of support in place for international students. The school does a great job of ensuring that students are welcomed, informed, and not left alone to struggle with adjusting to a new school in a new country. Erasmus Student Network (ESN), can help with everything from pick up at the airport to finding a Dutch “parent,” to show you the ropes and acquaint you with all the best spots in Utrecht to eat, study and of course, go clubbing! (http://esn-utrecht.nl/) International Neighbor Group (ING), organizes social activities for foreign staff and graduate students. (http://ing-utrecht.squarespace.com/)  There is also the Parnassos Cultural Center for those who wish to take on some creative coursework while studying at UU. http://www.uu.nl/EN/Parnassos/Pages/default.aspx. And of course, for those of you familiar with Meet Up, there are many active Meet Up groups in Utrecht and all over the Netherlands.

There is something for everyone. The only problem is lack of time and the danger of class becoming something you do between activities!

Greetings!

I recently moved to Utrecht from Phoenix, Arizona, and have just started the International Human Rights and Criminal Justice Master’s Program. I will be sharing my experiences with you, and will begin by sharing a little about me.

So, who am I and what am I doing here? I was born in The Hague and immigrated to the USA as a child. I grew up in in Los Angeles, California, attended university in Edmond, Oklahoma, and law school in Malibu, California. I then moved to Arizona, where I lived 26 years and worked as a prosecutor, first in Flagstaff and then in Phoenix, for nearly 25 years. I recently retired and have now returned full circle to where I began – in more ways than one! You see, I went to law school in the first place with the vague notion that I might one day practice international law. However, I began what turned into a very fulfilling career as a prosecutor and never looked back. Then one day I read an article about the prosecution of war crimes in The Hague, and learned that the international criminal tribunals employ attorneys from all over the world. Shortly thereafter I attended a local seminar that happened to include a guest speaker from one of the tribunals, who later gave me a tour when I next visited my family in the Netherlands. I began to muse that my life’s work might just bring me right back to my original goal after all!

Why Utrecht University? First, I love Utrecht; it is my favorite city in the Netherlands. Second, I have a Dutch cousin who attended law school at UU and he never fails to remind me of what a fine school it is! Third, I visited UU last fall to enquire about the LLM program and was graciously invited to participate in a writing practicum. Being a guest student in that class was the highlight of my trip! I was so impressed with the enthusiasm of the teachers and the students, as well as the hands-on practical approach to the program, and was delighted to be asked to participate in the evening’s exercises and discussions. I felt that this was where I belonged.

Why Utrecht? Every city has a countenance that one responds to at a visceral level. Utrecht is cheerful and charming, wizened by a rich and storied past yet vibrant with a young and quirky heart. She smiles, and one cannot see the Dom Tower, hear the carillon bells, or walk down the Oudegracht with all its cafes, pubs and shops, without smiling back. Utrecht is confident of her place in the world; she knows who she is, where she came from and where she wants to go next. She winks at those with similar dispositions, and cozily welcomes students of all ages and dispositions!

Stay tuned for the adventures of a student returning both to school and the Netherlands after a very lengthy hiatus!