International Student Life 101

There’s nothing quite like small moments of triumph in international student life. Whether it’s finding out where to post a letter to home, buying the proper groceries for the meal you actually intended to cook (as opposed to the Master Chef-like challenge of cooking with some mystery ingredient from Albert Heijn), or successfully navigating yourself via bike to a street with a name like Amsterdamsestraatweg, little achievements feel like big successes.

My small success this week (although a harder task than you might think) was finding a true-to-home, classic and delicious Irish breakfast at local pub Mick O'Connells. Real Irish sausages, bacon, two eggs, baked beans, hash browns and a bit of toast: my ticket home. Consider it a piece of something familiar for a fraction of the cost of a plane ticket out of Schiphol. With the stress of studying for exams and the occasional baffling challenges of being an international student in a country where you don’t speak the first language, sometimes it’s good to find something truly familiar. Utrecht is a multi-cultural city, especially in terms of cuisine, so you don’t have to go too far to find your favourites.

Of course, that’s only half the fun. The other half is being thrown into a culture that isn’t quite what you’re used to. Beyond tulips, clogs, windmills and the Red Light District, the Netherlands is a land full of (very tall) people with their own idiosyncrasies. After you’ve packed your bags and explained to family and friends that you aren’t moving to Amsterdam (no, it’s not a country) or even to Holland (you may want to show them this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE_IUPInEuc), you will soon discover what really makes the Dutch people stand out.

Those baffling moments I mentioned earlier are (luckily) few and far between. It may not be the first language, but English is spoken by almost everyone in this city. It only takes one expression of complete confusion when someone unknowingly asks you a question in Dutch before they will happily switch to English to accommodate you. The good news is that this makes international student life fairly easy. The bad news for people like me (Dutch-speaking wannabes) is that practicing Dutch means asking people to bear with you while you answer a simple question like ‘Hoe wil je betalen?’ (How do you want to pay?).

If you’re particularly brave, you might want to learn to understand ‘Dunglish’, a mixture of Dutch and English that comes from the direct translation of phrases. Beware: these translations rarely make sense. My personal favourite is ‘Helaas, pinda kaas’ (Unfortunately, peanut butter), but you can find countless more on the aptly-named Facebook page ‘Make that the cat wise’ if you need a good distraction from studying.

Coming into the wintery months, it is essential to wrap up warm (gloves are a must-have for riding my bright orange bike all winter long), keep an umbrella nearby at all times, and enjoy the seasonal Dutch dishes such as Boerenkoolstamppot (a delicious combination of potatoes and kale with sausage) or hearty pea soup. My study snack of choice this week is ‘Oliebollen’, or deep fried dough covered in powdered sugar. Okay, so they are traditionally eaten at New Year’s and they certainly can’t be good for you, but what can I say? It’s exam week.

Over the past week, I submitted my first research paper and sat my first law exam. Even though the grading system is daunting to say the least (with the mentality that '10 is for God, 9 is for the professor'), I will be happy to be out of my current no-grade limbo and officially have some of this Master’s under way. As things move quickly ahead, I jumped on board an opportunity to do a research internship with the university. The Clinic Program on ‘Conflict, Human Rights and International Justice’ will count as one of my classes (7.5 ECTS) and I will be starting the six-month position in just a few weeks.

The end of block one is in sight and it’s time for non-stop reading, punctuated by voluntarily-attended seminars and newly-discovered Irish breakfasts. Such is the life of the international student and it’s not bad at all.

Until the next time/Tot de volgende keer!

Erin

To the ICC and Beyond

Autumn has settled over Utrecht, bringing with it sunny days, evening chills and glasses filled with seasonal ‘Bockbier’. Flowing summer dresses are replaced by long coats and woolly scarfs, but the pace of life and bikes remains the same. The Dutch are always on the go, meeting friends and making appointments around their packed schedules.

Of course, the best way to answer the question ‘Hoe gaat het met jou?’ (How are you) is always ‘Druk, druk’ meaning ‘Busy,busy!’

In line with this mentality, I have been keeping busy, busy all week. As week five of the semester begins, we are already passing the halfway point of the first block of classes. Whereas in undergrad, the month of October meant preparing for a midterm break and some Thanksgiving dinner, now it means gearing up for final papers and studying for class exams.

Each Friday the class workshop is set up to help us prepare for exams and hone our skills. Theoretical problems solved with group work, writing workshops and legal research guides make the next task and the upcoming exams a little less daunting.

With Utrecht being situated so close (only an hour train ride) to Den Haag (The Hague), there is also a lot to be learned outside the classroom. On Friday morning, the class took the short train ride to the city for an organized tour of the International Criminal Court.

Roaming the long white halls of the ICC, with large portraits of the Judges and Prosecutors of the Court, we learned the history of the Court and how it is run, from the most routine Registry work to the complexities of the Court. Stepping away from the classroom and the textbooks where we study the ICC in-depth, we saw what the Court is like in action and met the people whose decisions we have studied including Judge Van den Wyngaert.

While we didn’t get the opportunity to watch a hearing, due to a closed session, the trip left more than a few of my classmates dreaming of internships and jobs at the International Criminal Court, and visualizing the possibility that they could one day be leading tours of academic hopefuls around the building or have their portrait hanging on the walls.

Leaving the excitement of The Hague behind, there was just enough time to enjoy the last of the afternoon sunshine in Utrecht and stroll through the stalls of the city’s popular biological market.

Now, as I sit at my kitchen table, sipping a cup of tea from home in Ireland (yes, care packages with your favourites are key to international student life), my focus is on the Moot Court problem ahead, which is keeping my group, or ‘The Defense’, both nervous and determined.

While the rate of Skype calls to family and friends has dropped a bit lately, with one mid-week message from my mother asking ‘Are you alive?’, I like to take this as a positive sign that I’m not only settling in to this new city but content being ‘Zo bezig als een bij’ (busy as a bee) and setting my sights on far-off Christmas holidays.

Until the next time/ Tot de volgende keer!

Erin

Human Rights and Criminal Justice LLM 2013-2014 with Judge Van den Wyngaert at the ICC

Library Life

Hi everyone,

I am up bright and early this Tuesday morning hoping to get a head start on a long list of readings and class preparations. After a good cup of strong Dutch coffee and a brisk 15-minute bike ride from the city centre, I have planted myself in a seat in the stunning library building on the main Uithof campus. Yes, I feel a little bad for cheating on the perfectly lovely Law library just around the corner from my house in the city, but sometimes it’s better to get as far away from home as possible to get a solid day of work done.

Not to mention, the library on the main campus is a thing of beauty. With unconventional black walls, floor-to-ceiling windows pouring in light and an open-concept spacious six floors, it is the perfect study spot. The building is equipped with private study rooms, computer stations on every floor, silent areas (for the especially focused), printers, lockers and benches to lounge on.

Still, as beautiful as it is, why would I choose to spend my day off class in the library? The answer is simple: absolute necessity. Oh, and reading, lots of reading. Before you start to feel too sorry for me though, let me explain how the Dutch system works.

The academic year is split into four different ‘blocks’, with each block consisting of about 10 weeks. This means there are two blocks per semester and each block has a fast-paced, rigorous program of two classes (three for the particularly brave).

This isn’t as daunting as it seems on first sight. The class schedule is set up so that there is plenty of time for self-study. I have a total of 7.5 hours of class time a week between my two classes. This may not seem like a lot and it certainly isn’t the class hours I was used to in my undergraduate degree, but it is meant to give me time to do the readings and preparation necessary to come to class and participate. On average, you’re expected to do approximately 16 hours a week of reading per class. Don’t worry, it is still possible to enjoy being an international student in this amazing city, it just takes a bit of good time management.

Let’s jump back to that word Dutch academics love: participation. The university system here is based on the ‘Polder model’ (working together) and places great emphasis on group work and participating. It is much better to speak up than to be a shrinking violet. For those who are really shy, there are sometimes other ways to participate such as bringing in relevant news articles.

The classes are divided into two types: ‘hoorcollege’ (lectures) and ‘werkcollege’ (tutorials). This means you’re not just being lectured to, but also working on specific problems and hypothetical situations with your classmates. This Friday, I will have my first work group consisting of a hypothetical law problem we must interpret and argue. Time to put that Polder model to the test!

Until the next time/ Tot de volgende keer!

Erin

Hi Everyone

Let me begin this first blog by introducing myself. My name is Erin Jackson and I am a 24-year-old Irish Canadian. The Canadian part comes from being born and attending university there whereas Ireland is where I was raised. So how did I end up in the Netherlands?

I first discovered Utrecht in early 2012 when I came on Erasmus from my university in Canada for five months.  I couldn’t get enough of the Dutch culture, way of life and the amount of bikes. Needless to say, when I went back to Canada to finish my degree I started to look at the Master’s programs Utrecht University had to offer. I couldn’t wait to come back!

Now, I’m just at the beginning of what will be a year long adventure, studying at Utrecht University and discovering (or rediscovering) this beautiful medieval city. I am enrolled in the Human Rights and Criminal Justice LLM, a significant departure from my undergraduate degree in Journalism. What better place to start studying international law than here, where class trips bring you straight to the International Criminal Court in the nearby city of the Hague?

With this new adventure, I am taking on a new set of labels: Master’s student, law student, expat, international and Dutch-speaking-wannabe. Settling in to Utrecht requires some must-haves such as a bike (an absolute essential to fully experience the Dutch way of life), a Dutch bank account and a registration permit with the city.

Luckily, the university is able to offer a helping hand for incoming, slightly lost international students (and yes, there are many of us). My introduction week included an international student orientation, a law faculty orientation and finally a programme orientation. Aside from getting the proper forms I needed to complete the above checklist of must-haves, I also got to familiarize myself with school buildings through a walking tour and to mingle with other international students. Even though I know the university offers many programmes in English, it wasn’t until I was sitting in a room filled with new Master’s students from over 70 countries that I realized just how international Utrecht University is.

My programme orientation was in the beautiful ‘Academy building’ in the centre of Utrecht. It is the same building where I will (fingers-crossed) graduate in one year. Our programme is small, just 15 students in total, with people from all over the world including Spain, Turkey, Uganda and Mexico. For an LLM focused on Human Rights, it is the perfect combination: small enough for in-depth discussion and with a broad range of people to cause heated debate.

With introduction week over and the start of classes underway, I feel as though I have my feet on the ground but there is no time to waste. With only nine weeks of classes per ‘block’, there is plenty of reading and work to be done right from the beginning. With that in mind, I think there is some reading I must get to!

Until the next time/ Tot de volgende keer!

Erin

Dutch Retreat

Later this week I will submit my thesis, marking the end of my academic year at UU. Hard to believe! Looking back on the year, to quote Dickens: "It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair…” – A Tale of Two Cities 

The best of times? Making new friends, studying, working, and partying with amazing people from all over the world. Living in the Netherlands, in the heart of Europe, the biggest little country who could – and still can! Studying an exciting, vibrant and fresh area of law, in the very place where it is all unfolding. Having easy access to The Hague, with the Peace Palace and its incredible international law library, and the international tribunals and courts. And, living in Utrecht, the best kept secret in the Netherlands; old enough to know better but young enough to do it anyway, ever smiling!  

The worst of times? The sheer volume of information to be absorbed, assimilated and then written about with some semblance of authority. The demanding intensity of the study load given the short timeframes of the quarter system. The utter loss of confidence as you struggle with beginning anew, as an expat, with an area of law and way of life far beyond your comfort zone. Long dark nights studying, doing research, writing, fretting about deadlines, and, in the winter, well, very long dark nights! 

But after those “dark nights of soul,” the “Dark Knight Rises.” That film, which borrowed liberally from Dickens’ “A Tale of Two Cities,” ends with Bruce Wayne being espied, alive and well, in Florence after being presumed dead. It was the Batman series swan song for director Christopher Nolan and actor Christian Bales, but of course it will continue with a fresh perspective. Likewise, this is my last study blog, but next fall another student will begin afresh! 

Between submitting my thesis and graduation in late August, I will have time to relax, enjoy a visit from my son, travel a bit, and reflect both on the past year and what comes next. Whatever comes next, I am pretty sure you will find me in Utrecht. I’ll admit, what began as an infatuation has ripened into an abiding love. Where else can you dine on a medieval werf, watching the sublime and the ridiculous drift by? Opera singers, “mooners,” not to mention the odd person falling into the gracht. Where else can you enjoy carillon bell concerts from a 600-year-old tower that include Pink Floyd’s The Wall? (This year’s conclusion to the summer concert series). Where else do large teapots suddenly appear on top of shopping malls? 

So, I conclude with advice from Dickens: “The most important thing in life is to stop saying ‘I wish’ and start saying ‘I will.’ Consider nothing impossible, then treat possibilities as probabilities.” ―  David Copperfield. Take care, and watch out, as you may find me cruising around Utrecht on my bike, pinging right behind you!   

Tot ziens!

Going Dutch (Advanced Version)

As you near the one-year mark of living in the Netherlands, you realize that not only are you accustomed to living Dutch, you ARE Dutch. How do you know?  
 

You understand there is no description more dismal than “ongezellig,” and (bonus point!), can pronounce this word using proper fricative g’s and accompanying note of disproval.  

You understand that “leuk,” and “lekker” both mean nice, but that lekker means nice to the senses, such as tasty, warm, or luscious, and should probably not be used to describe your colleague or your boss. Bonus point, you can use the words “leuk,” “lekker” and “gezellig,” properly nuanced, in one sentence.  

You appreciate the economy of using one word, “snoepen,” to refer to the act of eating sweets and perhaps doing so on the sly.   

You routinely add the diminutive “je” to everyday words. Bonus point, you can ask for a “mesje” (knife) and not be misunderstood as asking for a “meisje” (girl). Important if you happen to be near a red light district!    

You no longer giggle when you see the street names “Fockstraat” and “Kockstraat,” and can say the words “uitvaart” and “rondvaart” with a straight face.   

When shopping for cheese, you understand the difference between “jong” (young) and “belegen” (mature) and (bonus point!) understand that “jong belegen” is not an oxymoron.   

You can distinguish between yogurt and kwark. And, (bonus point!) you prefer kwark.  

You have an Albert Heijn bonus card and always have your own bag handy.   

You think of “haring hapjes” (raw herring) as Dutch sashimi.   

You understand that “half seven” is 6:30, not 7:30.  

You can say “24” as “4 and 20” without thinking of blackbirds baked in pie.   

You are no longer surprised when traffic comes to a halt so that the bridge on the road can lift up and let several boats go by.   

You stop mentally placing the word “death” in front of the Dutch word for stair, “trap.”    

You think Douwe Egberts, not Starbucks.   

You continually complain about the weather and, (bonus point!) have referred to it as “hondeweer” (dog weather).   

You believe that bicycle traffic signals are only suggestions.   

You can lock your bike to just about anything, can locate it when you get back, and (bonus point!) can extricate it from the dozens of bike parked all around it without knocking most of them over.   

You can drink coffee and text while riding your bike, (bonus point!) sometimes both at the same time.    

You understand there is no arguing with “dat kan niet.”   

You buy fresh flowers just because they are so pretty and (bonus point!) so cheap.   

When inadvertently making eye contact with people through curtainless windows, you smile and wave and they smile and wave back.   

You can identify drop (black licorice) by sight, and (bonus point!) you like the salty ones.   

You know that animals speak Dutch, too: cows boe, frogs kwaken, pigs knor, birds tjilpen, and chickens say “tok tok.”  

You can read all the Dutch subtitles on English TV programs and (bonus point!) have learned all the important epithets in doing so.   

You can no longer imagine living anywhere else!